Montanet Thoden "Galeme" Vezelay 2020

Valentin Montanet’s wines are effortless examples of white Burgundy in the style of Chablis. This vintage of Galerne is slightly more opulent than the typical Vézelay in that its citrus profile leans in the direction of caramelized lemon skin and bitter pomelo seeds as opposed to a puckery acidity. It’s no less mineral, however. The wine was vibrant paired alongside ripe La Tur—a soft, funky goat and sheep’s milk cheese. I’m still dreaming of how the cheese’s decadent creaminess enhanced the silky texture of this blanc.

South of Chablis, but in the same orbit relative to the Cote dOr, lies another Burgundian satellite that is similar in ways to its more famous neighbor: Vzelay. An hour and a half northwest of Beaune, this freshly minted AOC is capable of producing distinct, world-class Chardonnay, especially in the hands of a vigneron as talented as Valentin Montanet, whose family domaine began to pioneer organic farming in the region around the turn of the twenty-first century. The climate this far north is relatively cold and is reinforced by the Galerne, a wind that sweeps down from the northwest across the vineyards of Vzelay, helping the grapes to stay dry, cool, and healthy. This climate, a clay-and-limestone soil, and stainless-steel vinification are the pillars of Valentins Galerne blanc, a divine rendition of pure, chiseled Chardonnay, bearing notes of orchard fruit, citrus, and oyster shells. Speaking of which, pair it with food as you would a Chablis: oysters, light seafood, and mild cheeses