Georges Lignier & Fils Clos St. Denis Grand Cru 2021

Having been known as the U.S. importer for Hubert Lignier for over 30 years, in 2014 we expanded our connection to the Lignier name through another branch of the family. Georges Lignier is a cousin of Hubert, and while the two estates are clearly separate operations, they do share some of the greatest vineyards in and around Morey-Saint-Denis. That may be where the similarities end, as the delicate, subtle and seductive qualities of Domaine Georges Lignier are a fascinating contrast to the more intense and structured wines of Hubert Lignier.

The domaine is led by Benoit Stehly, nephew of Georges Lignier, who worked at the domaine for a decade alongside his uncle, before assuming control of the work in both the vineyard and the cellar in 2008. His approach is very traditional, as he seeks to achieve maximum aromatic concentration, above nearly all other characteristics, including structural or color concentration. To achieve this, techniques such as a slightly later harvest and 80% destemming are employed. At the Villages level, the wines are raised in older barrels, while the 1er Crus see 30% new oak, and the Grand Crus 50% new oak. A vein of seductive elegance runs throughout the full range of wines, inviting a complex and beautiful conversation with each glass. The sensitive palate will thoroughly enjoy this approach, a statement of respect for the grandest of traditions in Burgundy and a sublime expression of the terroir underlying some of the most renowned sites in the Cote de Nuits. Since 2010 the wines are neither fined nor filtered.

Georges Lignier owns a significant 1.6-hectare portion of this 6.6-hectare grand cru, divided among two parcels—one 50 years old and one 70. Warmly spicy on the nose, with subtle mineral accents and deep red fruits, this offers large-scaled but vibrant and well-buffered tannins on its long and penetrating palate. (40% new oak.)