Even very casual consumers of Burgundy have likely heard of Domaine Dujac, considered one of the very best producers in Morey-Saint-Denis. This is a rather astounding fact given that the Domaine is only 50 years old, a blink in the eye given the region's winemaking history.

When Jacques Seysses purchased the estate of Marcel Graillet in 1967, it was in disrepair and had been selling fruit off in bulk for some years. In less then a decade he had invested heavily in the property and found customers for his domaine bottled wines. The Dujac name begin to be seen at top restaurants in France and beyond.

Fast forward 20 years and you have Jacques' sons, Alec and Jeremy taking over the reigns of the now expanded Domaine, with holdings in Gevrey, Chambolle, Vosne, Nuits and Puligny. Today Jeremy and his wife Diana Snowden (herself from a prominent winemaking family in Napa) are largely responsible for the operations.

The winemaking has evolved. Jacques was famous for using 100% of whole clusters and 100% new oak. Jeremy and Diana are the first to tell you that adaptation is key. The climate is changing dramatically in Burgundy, and every vintage presents new challenges. Stem use is between 20 and 100%, depending on the vintage and the vineyard. Same goes for oak use. On a visit there last spring Jeremy was excited to show us his concrete egg tanks that were aging the Puligny-Montrachets.

All of this is to say that this now storied Domaine is in very good hands as it heads into the future.

The 2023 Morey St. Denis AC bottling under the Dujac Fils et Père label was already assembled in tank and showed good potential on both the nose and palate. The bouquet is bright, black fruity and complex, offering up scents of cherries, plums, dark chocolate, a fine base of soil, woodsmoke and a deft touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and tangy, with a good core, fine soil undertow and grip, moderate tannins and a long, well balanced finish.